From: Westward Ho! to Barnstaple
Distance: 17m / 27.2km
Cumulated distance: 185.2m / 298km
Percentage completed: 18
Fantastic to be able to walk a day with Jules. I wasn’t sure that I could make the trip and so I thought I would surprise her by not telling her, rather than promising to come and then having to pull out.
British Rail (I know they don’t exist anymore but somehow it feels like the right place to focus traveller woes) played their part by showing that two wrongs can make a right: on arriving at the station to head west with my carefully chosen route and train times, I was told (a) those trains are cancelled today and (b) however, you can take the 11.58 to Plymouth (it was 12.25)… because it was delayed.
So the plan was to surprise Jules by being in the bar at her overnight rest place when she came down for a drink after her day’s perambulation. Plan thwarted by (a) no bar… she had booked a B&B and (b) she had one of her more “solid” days, walking in muddy, hilly terrain in driving rain, so hadn’t checked in by dusk. No worries; mein host Dave (and wife Sally; great B&B if ever you are in Westward Ho! http://www.mayfieldbandb.co.uk/ ) and I figured out where she must be, so I walked to meet her. It was one of the better surprises: Jules, plucky and somehow still radiant despite having walked all day in torrential rain, is confronted by this bloke who says “Here, do you know the way to John O’Groats?” and ululates in the street like a Zimbabwean mfazi. So after a warm shower, I treated her to a sweet wine and prawn cocktail; no expense spared.
Day 15 started in bright sunlight, but with an aggressive Beast-from-the-East wind. Our walk took us on the Tarka Trail on the Taw-Torridge estuary, so named after the journey of Tarka the otter in the classic tale written by Henry Williamson. The trail is mainly a disused railway line, so flat and easy going. And to our amazement, we were soon walking in a snowstorm. Nevertheless, it was a cruisy day, with lots of local interest, including the largest covered shipbuilder in Europe, a veritable graveyard for boats on the Taw (why?), a much appreciated coffee and mint meringue, wind farms (loving The Beast) and much bird life in the marshlands… a day when the Zimbabwean description of the UK as “the sinking mudbank” appeared apt.
On the estuary
Spring snow
Another highlight was stumbling upon (well OK I was surveying the liquor in a fine delicatessen in Instow http://www.johnsofinstow.co.uk/) The Black Dog, an aromatic gin produced in Devon (see http://www.dartmoordistilleryltd.com/ ).
Sweet temptations at Johns of Instow
Your guest writer finishes his account of the day as he settles into his second G&T with his wife and has only the finest things to say about black dogs of all persuasions.
Black Dog gin from Devon. We like Devon.
Black Dog Tails
Daschund Zoe cleverly stopped her owner from slipping into an insulin coma.
Dirk, good on ye maaate
The boy did good! x
What a fabulous surprise Patrick – must have given Jules a huge lift esp with such a tough couple of days weather wise. Nigel’s granny was born raised and died in the same house in Barnstable – aptly called ‘The Granary’. If you pass through there do keep a look out for it. Love to you both xx
It was a great boost and has buoyed me up for a good few weeks! Didn’t see ‘The Granary’ but I really loved the name. Love to you and Nigel.xx
Top hole Ginger! A very impressive strike under the radar. Biggles would be proud of you. All because the lady loves…
…Black Dog!
He’s a dark horse alright, sir. Didn’t suspect a jolly thing.
Many a time spent in my younger years overlooking the Taw estuary from Instow and Barnstaple growing up in N.Devon . A pastime spent watching the helicopter activities of RAF Chivenor nearby where you have walked. I know your route well. You’re going great Jules and enjoying your updates. And stay warm! Phil
Hi Phil, great to hear from you. We loved Instow yesterday. It’s a great part of the world you grew up in. Trying to stay warm in the face of another big snow dump!
So many highlights Jules ! The sweet temptations , the aromatic gin, and last but not least Patrick , the highlight of all highlights in the list of FORTHcoming attractions . What a beautiful surprise! So romantic .
Desperately hoping that spring shows up more consistently for you my dear friend , big hugs xox
Thank you, Sophie. Alas, the Beast from the East has dumped a whole pile of snow today .. a lot of it on me! Exceedingly pretty though and I prefer walking in snow to mud. Big hugs back xxx
Well down Jules, and Patrick. What a nice surprise.
We are really enjoying following your journey. Happy walking
Great knowing you’re by my metaphorical side, Alastair!
What a great surprise!!
The best!
Another beautiful sausage…I’m not sure mine is that smart!
Wonderful that Patrick flew out to meet you, all the better that it was a surprise. How fabulous! I’m in Zimb right now, will try to see if I can find folks ululating….
Patrick’s a pretty good ullulator! He once got the whole Zimbabwean cricket team to turn round as they walked on to the pitch at the start of a match at The Sydney Cricket Ground! Hope all’s ok in Zim for you. x
Loved the intro, the surprise, And British rail and would have loved to hear the ululating Zimbabwean! Really hope the weather lifts and the walking gets a bit brighter and easier. We are struggling here in Sydney at 38 degrees!
Ingrid! How lovely to hear from you! Sadly for Adi, the Beast from the East is currently trying its best to blanket the south west with snow. She’ll probably need to wear every item of clothing she has with her to stave off the cold! Enjoy your 38 degrees. x
I’m still smiling Jules – it’s everything you deserve! The spring snow, closely followed by those amazing cakes and then gin…all in the right order and it looks as though you have had a very special day together – brilliant! Xx
It was a lot of fun and I too haven’t stopped smiling yet! Took me hours to really believe he was here .. felt so surreal. xx
So lovely to see Patrick with you on the epic trail! As well as a second mention of a dachshund, keep them coming, and of course the Black Dog Gin – how wonderful. Your blog is fast becoming a favourite part of my day, we are all so, so impressed! 🐾🐾🐾
You are too kind! We had coffee at a fab deli in Instow yesterday, where there was a parade of black dogs passing the window!No Ottos though .. way too cold for their ears! xx
I’m assuming you are the Forthcoming attractions! Great surprise for Jules including our ‘Beast from the East’ which keeps rearing it’s unwanted head. Now you are here Patrick….let’s hope the weather improves. Enjoy this amazing time together.
Xx
It was such a huge surprise! But I’ve lost him already .. back to Sydney. xx
So romantic! Sam and I were planning the movie of your walk and loved the surprise meeting, reminiscent of the railway children when Bobbie sees her father through the mist at the station!
That’s one of my favourite movie bits of all time! I’m going to be walking through the place it was made in weeks to come. I shall think of you! xx
You two are simply incredible! (And was I right or was I right about Patrick leading Jules astray 🤔 …?!) xx
He’s always been a dreadful influence! But Black Dog gin .. who could resist! xx
I do very much like your “forthcoming attraction”, Jules! In fact I love it!! xxx
Yes, it made us both chuckle! xx
So pleased you made it ok , it was great to meet you both and we do hope you have a safe journey on the rest of your travels,
Didn’t get the chance to tell you that our house was built as 2 fives courts for the United services college where Rudyard Kipling went to school , please if you haven’t already read the book Stalky and Co it’s about his school days here in Westward Ho! It’s a good read ,, the building was converted in 1926 to the house it is today after the college closed.
Looking forward to your next blog , you are amazing xx
How lovely of you to get in touch, Sally and Dave. Thank you for your great hospitality and your generous donation. I will look out the Kipling book later in the year. x
PS Just reading the truly terrible weather forecast for SW England – hopefully it’s time for a rest day but in any case please don’t take any risks!! Xx
It’s been a very snowy day .. but lovely snow with great views. Tucked up at the B&B now, all safe. x
I would normally say beware of strange men plying you with gin. But such devotion….
Ah yes, when there’s a good gin to be sniffed out you can rely on Patrick’s devotion! x
What a lovely surprise and a joy to read Patrick’s spousal blog. I feel I’m back in Freycinet with those solid and cruisey words!! Glad you got to experience the lovely spring weather and am impressed with your preparation for solid wet weather gear. Very dashing. Jules, great progress as Cornwall is now looking very distant on your map. Lots of love to you both from a cold and snowy Kent. Xxx
Couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw him walking down the road towards me .. felt like I was on Candid Camera! Lovely to have some cruisey time together. xx
A very dogged yet cheerful display from you Jules in what are obviously mainly very challenging conditions. The coastal scenery is really beautiful and almost expect a biblical figure to appear out of the cloud cover in some of the snaps. Patrick showing up obviously a mega bonus. If no one has placed a claim on the little robin drawing I would be happy to do so to round out my bird series!
Ha ha! Was a brilliant surprise, perfectly executed! More snow to walk in over Exmoor today. Let me take a look to see if the robin drawing was sold or not .. I could do another one for you if it is, Jill. xx
I’m a sucker for romance and surprises! How wonderful! Hello and love to both! X
It was a good one! xx
Good on ye Frothy to track down the mfazi in the howling rain. I am sure they could have heard the ululating as far as Mana Pools. Can’t say I ever had much faith in the UK spring ever starting before June. Any chance of a day in the sun before you heard south again?