From: Langdon Beck to Dufton
Distance: 14m / 22.5km
Cumulated distance: 685m / 1102km
Percentage completed: 57.9
Yesterday started in County Durham and ended in Cumbria. The walk along the Pennine Way, wended its way through Widdybank, Cauldron Snout and High Cup. The terrain was bleakly beautiful moorland for much of the route, with two of the most spectacular geological features of my entire journey. Widdybank is described by The Wildlife Trust as ‘a most wonderful botanical station, with all the glories that grassland, flushes, bogs and limestone rock have to offer’. But in fact we failed to see just about any flowers of any kind. Black grouse, with their tufty red wattle and the ring ouzel with its loud and mournful song, apparently both breed in this area but we saw few of them either. The day was all about the views.
Early morning view from Langdon Beck hotel ..
.. half an hour later the mist came in but thankfully moved on
The early part of the day had us following Maize Beck, through an empty, empty landscape. Even the sheep seemed few and far between.
Maize Beck
We passed a curious sight at one stage .. something that harked back to a bygone age. Along the wire of one of the fences were tied dead moles, in a dismal little line. Maybe they were put there by the mole-catcher to demonstrate he was doing his work or perhaps, like the Tudors displaying human heads on city walls, they were being used as a warning to other moles. Either way it was a pretty grim sight.
Deceased moles
It certainly added to the brooding atmosphere of the landscape.
Nick and Joanna lightening the mood
At one stage the riverside walk became quite a challenge, with giant boulders to pick a path between. It was slow-going and demanding of the concentration. But if you stopped to really look at the rocks, you saw that they were covered in the most exquisite lichen. No wonder designers look to nature so often for new ideas.
Challenging riverside walk
Up close
Seeking respite among the boulders
Cauldron Snout cascade lies just below the dam of Cow Green Reservoir, which holds back a whopping 40,000 million litres of water. The Snout’s more a long cataract than a waterfall but at 180 metres, it’s probably the longest waterfall in England. It certainly has the best name, in my humble opinion. As we walked past it we stepped from County Durham into Cumbria, my favourite English county, where I’ve walked on countless occasions, mostly with my sister. And once in a group of four when all were called Helen, except for me.
Cauldron Snout
As we were climbing up the side of the Snout, forty or so young kids were coming down with huge great packs on their backs. Duke of Edinburgh Gold, we all thought. But no, this was their first day of Bronze! Quite astonishingly difficult for students from a South Shields school, many of whom had never been out of the city. I loved the way they were helping one another and looked so bright and cheerful .. clearly newbies to the game. Incidentally, their packs each weighed in at a hefty 64 litres! Respect.
Helping hands
A long climb took us up from the reservoir to our lunch spot, overlooking .. well, nothing really. Vast areas of moorland, much of which was prohibited from entry by the military. We sat in an area of Shake Holes on Dobson Mere Foot to eat and rest the feet.
Long and winding road
Joanna trying to look taller than me .. just not convincing
The star act of the day was undoubtedly High Cup Nick. It’s a massive, deep U-shaped valley and having seen umpteen photos of the place, my expectations were extremely high. And I was not disappointed. It was as if a giant had taken a huge scoop out of the land, leaving a stupendous empty bowl. It’s three miles from the nearest road and so anyone being here has come with the intent of being awed .. there are no bus loads of tourists, no tacky souvenir shops, no cafes selling curled up sandwiches. Instead, just peace and natural splendour.
High Cup Nick coming into view
And what is especially awing about High Cup Nick is the way that you almost stumble across it. One minute you’re walking along featureless, bleak moorland and the next thing, the whole landscape opens up to reveal one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen. Not only is the valley itself spectacular but it also creates the most extraordinary frame for the distant mountains of the Northern Lake District.
Frame for the Lakes
As the knees complained and the feet joined in, it was a timely reminder of why I was doing this walk. There was no complaint from my eyes nor my happy heart. I lay down to just drink it all in, wishing I could store the experience in a bottle to be brought out at will.
Happy
Walking around the side of the Cup, with snow still visible on the far side
Starting the descent
And then, as if the day couldn’t get better we spied a flock of sheep being driven up the hillside towards us. Not only was it a fabulous sight, with the backdrop of Cumbrian mountains behind the flock but it was also an awesome sheep dog demonstration.
Cumbrian sheep
Getting closer
In the thick of it
Over the hill and far away
Way down to Dufton
The descent into Dufton was tough on the knees but with such an uplifting day it was neither here not there. And there was still time for some silliness .. I was with Nick and Joanna, you have to remember.
Just because I’m taller than her ..
The icing on the cake at the end of the day was the Stag Inn, Dufton. A clearly very convivial pub, groaning with local punters and walkers. A perfect place to end a dream of a day.
Hawkshead real ale awaiitng ..
Black Dog Tails
Hank performs a very necessary task with the soldiers in Pech River Vallery of Afghanistan’s Kunar Province. He’s the only Boston Terrier, in fact the only dog, who was sent to interact with soldiers as stress relief. Capt Katie Kopp is pictured with Hank.
I too enjoy seeing the D of Eers, almost always cheerful and gaining an experience that we oldies have been through and will always remember, but cannot ever repeat. Unfortunately these guys are equipped with horribly heavy gear because of expense I reckon, but it is just at the time when they need all the help they can get, and why doesn’t someone teach them to pack a rucksack properly instead of having straps, sleeping mats et al hanging, wobbling and dangling all over?. When I look back at doing my First Class Journey in the Scouts with an ex-army commando rucksack that weighed perhaps more than the whole of my present day backpacking kit it is with fond memories, but now of course I can afford to buy ultra lightweight expensive gear which wasn’t even available in those days not long after the War.
Part pf your reason for enjoying the splendour of the view of High Cup Nick is that you earned it, and as you say, the fact that it can’t be bottled for later use which would not be quite the same as one’s pleasant memories.. I particularly enjoy a hot bath at any time, but a hot bath after a long day’s walk has a unique magic that is impossible to attain any other way.
All so true, Conrad. Equipment has changed a mammoth amount, even in the past decade. The fact I can hold my coat on my little finger is an indicator of how light it is! High Cup Nick was one of the best bits of my entire journey so far, I think .. and yes walking in on the flat from the other end, wouldn’t have been nearly as satisfying.
The best times are when you somehow escape evidence of our denaturing of our world, through weather and landscape, and imagine how it all would have been eons ago. I think that does make the heart sing. It is such a pleasure to read of the joy you are finding in this walk Jules, particularly in the paths you are now walking. In the words of RF : “You become even more aware of landscape as a medley of effects, a mingling of geology, memory, movement and life. The landforms remain, but they exist as presences: inferred, less substantial, more powerful… Wildness is not only a property of land – it is also a quality which can settle on a place with a snowfall or with close of day.” Hope you have a better day than we did for your high walking today. Believe there is a forecast for snow on Cross Fell on Monday. Brrr!!
There was a smattering of snow but nothing like what you experienced, Marilyn! The views were sublime. xx
I mean RMcF. Typo!!
Absolutely beautiful. An uplifting read. The place names sound like something out of Harry Potter 🧙🏼♂️ ! Xx
The place names are such a source of joy! x
It may be wishful thinking but your delightful sketches have got a day ahead of yourself.
I so know! Ever since I took a day off for the wedding I’ve been in a complete muddle and no matter how I try to fix it simply can’t. I ask for your indulgence ..
Wow!! Beautiful views and country side! You’re doing an amazing job Jules … love your work! Keep walking !
Thanks Kellie! Great getting your messages.
A breathtakingly beautiful day Jules – and happy to boot! Congrats winging their way to you. Xx
Thank you, dear Frannie. xx
That view never gets old……fabulous. So jealous!
Xx
Thanks Liz. xx
Big hello’s to nick and Joanna. Stunning views. So glad to hear you still having such a good time. Xx
Yes, it’s been a lot of fun. I swap them for the Seviors tonight and an old friend of mine from Singapore. How lucky am I. xx
Such an impressive landscape, Jules! No wonder you are still keen to go on despite having already walked all those miles! I’m really enjoying your commentary and sketches too. Hope you continue lucky with the weather!
Thanks Caroline. Suspect there’s still quite a bit of weather ahead .. but I have all the waterproofs to cope with it!
Beautiful countryside – a bit sad the moles though! How amazing this experience must be. And documenting each day as you are is wonderful for us but also must be good for you to store the memories and relive the special moments. Thanks!
Thanks Ingrid .. yes, the blog will be a much better reminder than this old brain of mine!
In awe of High Cup Nick , what a magnificent earth’s feature ! Also loving the ‘rainbow sheep’ wanting to stand out , I hope you will paint some scenes including sheep Jules xx
It truly was awesome .. in the truest sense of the word for a change. Think I may get to painting some of the scenes as you suggest, later in the year. xx